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Friday, July 31, 2009

36 Hours in Glasgow

GLASGOW has the classic second-city complex — locked in a never-ending comparison with its more popular and tourist-accessible sibling, Edinburgh, less than 50 miles away. But give Glasgow a little extra attention, and you will find that, like the famously inscrutable dialect of its residents, this understatedly stylish city is worth deciphering. With its mix of modern and classic architecture, plentiful cultural and culinary options, shopping districts and large green spaces, the city holds an appeal for both civic-minded locals and sophisticated travelers who find discovering a place is half the fun.
 
By DAVID G. ALLAN
 
Entire Article: The New York Times

Photos of Rome's street artists

Creative expression in Rome isn't limited to museums and churches. It's out in the open, if you know what to look for and where. We sent photoblogger Jessica Stewart out to capture street art's various incarnations—stencils, graffiti, chalk drawings, even break-dancing. Check out the results in our slide show.

Stewart moved to Rome four years ago, after completing degrees in art history and Renaissance studies, and began posting at RomePhotoBlog. Her photographs are on display through July 31 at Al Vino Al Vino (via dei Serpenti 19) and will be included in a show at Hobo Art Club (via Ascoli Piceno 3), September 11-25.

I chatted with Stewart over pizza at Il Maratoneta in Rome's San Lorenzo neighborhood this spring and, more recently, traded emails to get her impressions of the evolving street art scene.

Posted by: Kate Appleton

Entire Article: BudgetTravel

Google Launches Its Facebook Page

Apparently Google Didn't Have a Facebook Page

Google quietly launched an official Facebook page this week. Although that quiet didn't stop the page from attracting over 264,000 fans already so far.

Google has two favorite pages listed - the AdWords page and the iGoogle page. Both of them have been around longer. iGoogle came on the scene last month it looks like, and the AdWords page has been around for quite some time. It doesn't look like Fans of the Official Google Facebook Page will be getting access to much more than Official Google Blog posts, but that could certainly change in the future.

Google seems to have been more interested in communicating via Twitter in the past. A while back the company launched a slew of Google accounts for various products, and have acquired piles of followers on those.

By Chris Crum

Article from: WebProNews

Paris Essentials

Home to more than 10 million people, the "City of Lights" is majestic in its architecture and artistic heritage. More than a destination of pleasurable externals, bourgeois absolutes and just-baked baguettes, Paris is great sightseeing, incredible shopping, and leisure dining that always comes with desserts in the form of delicate trays of the finest chocolates and macaroons.

Paris is so much more than the Eiffel Tower, the Arc de Triomphe, Notre-Dame and the Louvre. This trip, stroll the Marais and shop along rue des Francs Bourgeois or walk under the arches of the oldest square in Paris, Place des Vosges. Take time to explore the Latin Quarter to see the church of St. Severin, the Sorbonne and rue Mouffetard -- not just because it's where Joyce, Orwell, Balzac and Hemingway once lived, but also for the rows and rows of fresh food glistening like bouquets of colorful gems under the street market's faded French blue-striped awnings. Stop by the booksellers' stalls along the banks of the Seine around Notre-Dame for antique and second-hand books, comic strips, postcards and posters at great prices.

Saint Germain-des-Pres and the stately Church of St Sulpice's beautiful Delacroix murals are a must-see this trip -- as is the St. Germain Church, the city's oldest church -- before heading down the neighborhood's enchanting streets, through the old squares and artists' studios that surround it. Don't forget to leave time to head up to the little village of Montmarte and the old cobbled streets where Renoir, Lautrec and van Gogh lived and worked; there are wonderful views of the city.

Paris is basically divided twice, first into 20 municipal quarters called arrondissements and second by the Seine, which divides the city into the Right Bank to the north and the Left Bank to the south, linked by 32 bridges. Two of those bridges connect to two small islands at the heart of the city: Ile de la Cite, the city's birthplace and site of Notre-Dame, and Ile St-Louis, a moat-guarded oasis of 17th-century chateaux. The quarters spiral out like a snail, beginning with the first arrondissement. Included in these 20 "neighborhoods" are well known areas like Montmarte, Montparnasse and the Marais.

The best way to find an address is by checking out the arrondissement first. This is indicated by a number followed by "e" or "er," which in English means "th" or "st" (i.e., 7e, 1er). It's also indicated by the last two digits of a postal code (i.e., 70007 = the 7e).
What to See
What weighs 7,000 tons and has 1,665 steps and 10,000 light bulbs? The Eiffel Tower! This breathtaking landmark was built by Gustave Eiffel (did you know he designed the framework for the Statue of Liberty?) for the 1889 Universal Exhibition to commemorate the centenary of the French Revolution and was opened by the Prince of Wales, who later became King Edward VII of England.

louvre paris pyramid blue sky The Louvre is the world's greatest art museum -- so it really doesn't matter if you've been here before since there's no chance you've seen it all. Collections divide into Asian antiquities, Egyptian antiquities, Greek and Roman antiquities, sculpture, objets d'art, paintings, and prints and drawings. Obviously, the top attractions (and most likely the ones you've seen) are the "Mona Lisa" and the 2nd-century "Venus de Milo."

Note: Avoid the never-ending lines to enter through the Pyramid. Instead, come in from the Carrousel de Louvre mall on rue de Rivoli or, even better, through the Louvre's Metro stop.

Moulin Rouge has been putting on its famous show since 1889. Of course, being immortalized by Henri Toulouse-Lautrec and known for the risque can-can didn't hurt either. It's still fabulous with plenty of feathers, sequins and of course, gorgeous semi-naked showgirls. It's open every night.

The 164-foot Arc de Triomphe was planned by Napoleon to celebrate his military successes, but wasn't finished for another 20 years after he took a trip to Elba. It has some magnificent sculptures, and the names of Napoleon's generals are inscribed on the stone facades. There is a small museum halfway up the arch devoted to its history (you can actually climb to the top). France's Unknown Soldier is buried beneath, and the flame is rekindled every evening.

Although it's probably easier to take the elevator up to the top of the Eiffel Tower, you can also climb 387 steps up to the north tower of 12th-century Notre-Dame for a nice view of the city. It was here in 1804 that Napoleon crowned himself emperor and then crowned Josephine as his empress. When planning your visit, keep in mind that the cathedral is open year-round from 8 a.m. until nearly 7 p.m., but the towers and crypt are operated by the National Monuments Centre and have more limited opening hours.

Musee d'Orsay is in fact a magnificent 1900 railway station that now houses a superb collection of Impressionist art from 1848 - 1914, including major works from Degas, Monet, Renoir, van Gogh and Gauguin. If you don't have lots of time, browse the Upper Level to see the enormous railway clocks in addition to some of the museum's best exhibits.

There's little left of the Bastille, and its remains are pretty much surrounded by a neighborhood filled with an array of popular cafes, clubs and the Opera Bastille, completed in 1990. The Colonne de Juillet dominates la Place de la Bastille, marking the site of the prison that was stormed at the start of the French Revolution in 1789.

Entire Article: IndependentTraveler.com

Mexico shuts Cancun beach, alleges sand was stolen

MEXICO CITY – Surprised tourists found their little piece of Cancun beach paradise ringed by crime-scene tape and gun-toting sailors on Thursday.

Environmental enforcement officers backed by Mexican navy personnel closed off hundreds of feet (dozens of meters) of powder-white coastline in front of a hotel accused of illegally accumulating sand on its beach.


Mexico spent $19 million to replace Cancun beaches washed away by Hurricane Wilma in 2005. But much of the sand pumped from the sea floor has since washed away, leading some property owners to build breakwaters in a bid to retain sand. The practice often merely shifts sand loss to beaches below the breakwaters.

"Today we made the decision to close this stretch of ill-gotten, illegally accumulated sand," said Patricio Patron, Mexico's attorney general for environmental protection. "This hotel was telling its tourists: 'Come here, I have sand ... the other hotels don't, because I stole it.'"

Patron said five people were detained in a raid for allegedly using pumps to move sand from the sea floor onto the beach in front of the Gran Caribe Real Hotel. The hotel is also suspected of illegally building a breakwater that impeded the natural flow of sand onto other hotels' beaches, he said.

An employee of the hotel's marketing office said nobody was available to comment on the allegations. Authorities said the hotel owner ignored previous orders to remove the breakwater.

A knot of angry tourists gathered around the closed beach.

Some were irked by the sight of police tape and "Closed" signs.

Maria Bachino, a travel agent from Rocha, Uruguay, said by telephone that she had booked a beachfront room in Cancun, only to find herself cut off from the clear, bathub-temperature waters that lure millions to Cancun each year.

"They promised us a beach," said Bachino. "This is very unpleasant, we feel bad. This is intimidating," she said of the armed navy personnel who participated in the raid.

Patron said he regretted any inconvenience for tourists, but said the government is planning projects to restore beaches throughout Cancun in an orderly, environmentally responsible way.

"I apologize to the tourists for this problem, but it is a question of enforcing the law," Patron said.

By MARK STEVENSON, Associated Press Writer

Article from: YahooNews

Thursday, July 30, 2009

Airlines' plan to reduce routes may raise fares

Struggling carriers need more revenue
Airline passengers will see fewer nonstop flights, less-convenient travel options, and possibly higher ticket prices and fees in the coming months as major carriers make big capacity cuts this fall season for the second year in a row.
Earnings reports for the April-June quarter this week showed airlines are desperate to raise revenue as they head into their traditionally slow period.
Six of nine major U.S. airlines reported profits in the quarter, but sales were down for most as a result of weak demand and lower fares. For seven U.S. airlines and their regional affiliates, the June yield — or average price a person pays to fly one mile — was almost 19 percent lower than a year earlier, according to the Air Transport Association.
"I think you're really going to see overall less service, but you'll still have service," said Bob Jordan, Southwest Airlines Co.'s executive vice president of strategy and planning.

Entire Article: The Tennessean.com

Treasure Hunting Vacations

Search for gems and pirate booty 'round the world

Making money while on a vacation isn’t a common occurrence—unless you get lucky on the slots. But if Vegas isn’t your style, don’t worry, you can still come home from a trip with your purse a little fatter. There are legends of buried pirates’ treasure that was never found, gold that has still been seen in California rivers, and caves in the Midwest that abound with jewels and gems of all kinds. Although treasure hunting vacations may not make you millions, there is a good possibility of finding diamonds or gold—and even if you don’t, looking is half the fun.

Entire Article: ForbesTraveler.com

A bicycle trip through Thailand becomes a tribute

Four months after her husband died of a heart attack, she pedals through a land full of guardian spirits. It seemed natural that his spirit would follow her there.

One single strand of string bound us together: 17 travelers, 32 guardian spirits, four guides, and a Buddhist monk. We all sat on mats in front of the monk waiting for something to happen.

"The Ageb and his helpers will put jasmine leis around your necks and unwrap a ball of twine to encircle the group like a spirit corral, as he chants his prayers to call in the entities who have strayed," said Piak, one of our soulful Thai bike guides, who had been doing this for 20 years.

Before starting any important journey in Thailand, a master ageb, or retired monk, is invited to call the wayward spirits together, reuniting them in a ceremony called Bai Sii for safeguarding the traveler.

"After he is satisfied that the spirits are assembled, he will take the string and rewind it to make your bracelets, tied on the left wrist for women, placed on the right for the men in our group. You must wear the bracelet at least three days for protection. Don't ever cut it, or it will bring you bad luck," Piak said.

Our ceremony was for protection during our bicycle tour through the tropical farmlands and jungle forests of northern Thailand from Chiang Mai to Chiang Rai -- seven days and 210 miles of mountain biking over the Golden Triangle. The term applies to the opium-growing region where the borders of Thailand, Myanmar (Burma), and Laos converge, but our group would stay safely on the Thai side.

It was my first solo bike trip in 36 years without my husband, Howard, who died of a heart attack four months before. Perfectly healthy, he left the house at 7 a.m. to go biking with friends. I called from the bedroom, "Goodbye, honey. See you for happy hour. I love you." He never came home.

We had planned to take this trip together. I mustered up the courage to go in celebration of his life. It looked good on paper. Jennifer Lampshire from Backroads helped me book the trip.

"I don't want to go with a bunch a guys or too many couples," I blubbered over the phone, and she searched the upcoming trips and found me the right combination. My husband and I had toured Bali, China, Costa Rica and many other countries over the years with Backroads so I knew I'd be in good company even if I wasn't very good company myself.

That night, assembled around the pool at our first hotel, we lighted fire balloons to send away bad luck. Rice paper domes heated with bees wax candles silently floated up, disappearing into the moonlight.

"This is always done for the king's birthday," said Ghing, another Thai guide, "and for many other celebrations."

We hadn't even really started biking yet, but the trip was bound to be blessed in many ways unimaginable.

Bike to shop or shop to bike?

We were 12 women and five men on this bike adventure, and I didn't know a soul. Several of the women were hard-chargers, racing the guys up every hill, never missing a chance to extend the maximum mileage for the day. One of the women, a Brazilian beauty, had started riding only six months before the trip. I was somewhere in the upper middle, meaning that I was strong but lazy. We were a varied lot of cyclists. But, besides biking, we had one thing in common: shopping.

"There's a great custom silk shop back in Chiang Rai," said Lynny, our American guide, who had discovered the shop on her last group tour. Lynny was direct from San Francisco and was quite the natty dresser, even in bike clothes, which can be pretty grim.

"We'll have a van available to take you and your bikes back to the Legend Resort after lunch. You'll have time for a quick shower, and then our driver will escort you to the shop and wait for you to bring you back. Who wants to go?"

Full Article: LATimes

Etiquette 101: Tipping Guide

Whom to tip, how much to give, and how to give it—in more than 35 countries around the world.
So you just had a five-star meal in Qatar. Or went scuba diving in beautiful Bohol in the Philippines. Well, lucky you! But how do you express your appreciation for the service you received? Are you in a country where tipping is customary and required? Appreciated but not expected? Or virtually unheard-of? The truth is, tipping rules vary by country, by region, and by scenario. A modest rounding up of the check may be fine in some places and insufficient in others. A few small bills left on a night table might be gladly picked up by housecleaning staff in one hotel and scrupulously shunned elsewhere. Such uncertainties can throw an uneasy shadow over even the most exhilarating jaunt in a new land. That's why we've spelled out guidelines for the most common tipping situations in more than 25 countries, from Switzerland to Syria to Singapore.

Entire Article: Conde Nast Traveler

British Airways ends free meals on short flights, blames recession

British Airways is scrapping all free meals — except breakfast — on its short-haul flights as the airline continues to trim costs amid a recession-driven downturn in demand for travel.

BA said Wednesday that the decision to cut meals on flights lasting less than two hours would save the airline around 22 million pounds ($36 million) each year.

Entire Article: USA Today

London Tour

Business-Class Bargains for Overseas Travelers

FROM the airlines’ point of view, these are tough times for premium overseas travel. In May, according to the International Air Transport Association, global demand for business- and first-class seats was down over 26 percent from May 2008. It was the 12th consecutive month of year-on-year declines in demand for those premium seats, which at one time were a gold mine for airlines.

But a crisis for airlines has also created opportunities for business travelers bound overseas and determined to make the trip in productive comfort (lots of space to work in and those cushy lie-flat beds to rest in, for example) — without buying a ticket that can cost as much as a good used car.

With a degree of flexibility in travel plans, you can now fly overseas in business class for a fraction of what it used to cost. Airlines started introducing spot fare sales for international premium seats last fall when demand fell in a deteriorating economy. Now, as conditions have worsened, airlines seem to be settling into a basic restructuring of international premium-class fares that resembles the way airlines have long priced leisure fares in the back of the plane.

“I don’t know even what counts as a sale anymore,” said Joe Brancatelli, who publishes Joesentme.com, a subscription Web site for business travelers. “Airlines are now yield-managing fares up front like they do in the back. It’s looking like a permanent sale environment.”

Airlines adopted yield-management strategies in the 1980s to sell coach seats efficiently. Yield management assumes that airline seats are perishable and can be marked at fluctuating prices based on calculations for demand, starting months in advance and continuing until the time the plane takes off.

Because of reductions in corporate spending, business travelers have begun behaving more and more like leisure travelers, eschewing immediate convenience for lower prices — even in the international premium niche.

I can’t begin to summarize the current discount fare environment. But here are a few current and arbitrarily chosen examples. Contemplating a business trip to Shanghai? With a little flexibility, you can travel in luxury and sleep in a lie-flat bed. Air Canada has a sale in which a first-class ticket between Los Angeles and Shanghai is available for less than $3,500. A year ago, a traveler could have easily paid over $15,000 on various airlines for that ticket.

Business class from New York to London? For the British Airways swanky Club World cabin, that will be about $2,544 round trip for late summer travel, with an advance purchase. The walk-up fare for Club World on that route used to be about $11,000 and is still about $7,500.

New York to Amsterdam? On the mostly business-class planes operated by OpenSkies, a British Airways subsidiary, the summer fare is about $1,300, round trip.

As always, you need to check individual airline Web sites for the fine print on advance purchase restrictions and fees.

Or, given the current free-for-all in high-end fares, you may even want to consult with a real live travel agent. That’s because finding the right premium fares at the right time has become cumbersome even for business travelers who used to book travel themselves in a less frantic environment.

“We all know the airlines are reducing capacity, but that’s going to take time,” said Fran Kramer, who specializes in international bookings for DePrez Travel, a big agency in Rochester with clients all over the country. “While they do that and figure out what works,” she added, “there are certainly a lot of opportunities” for finding major fare discounts on international premium travel.

Ms. Kramer said that airlines, desperate for whatever revenue they can get, sometimes reach out to agents with last-minute offers for premium seats that are unsold, even at promotional fares, just before a flight. “Yesterday, we got a call 24 hours in advance offering my client the option to go to Europe in business class for $500 extra,” she said.

Airlines can’t continue losing money indefinitely, but they’re still flying those fancy cabins overseas. So big discounts on premium travel will continue until supply can be brought into some profitable relationship with demand. Even then, those stunning $11,000 round-trip business-class fares between, say, New York and London may be a thing of the past.

Airline executives have been looking ahead with reduced expectations.

“This industry can always reduce prices,” said Willie Walsh, the chief executive officer of British Airways. “The challenge now is, can you adjust your cost base to reflect that different price point, or ideally can you take the costs out quicker than the prices are going down?”

E-mail: jsharkey@nytimes.com

Article from NYTimes.com

Wednesday, July 29, 2009

Delta enhancing frequent-flier program

ATLANTA – Delta Air Lines Inc. is taking a page from the cell phone industry and will be allowing elite frequent fliers to roll over miles earned above their qualification status in a given year so they have an easier time maintaining that status or improving to a higher one the next year.

The world's biggest airline operator planned to announce Tuesday enhancements to its SkyMiles Medallion program that will go into effect over the next nine months.

The changes come at a time of weak demand in the airline industry amid the recession. Business travel, in particular, has been in a slump, and giving extra advantages to elite frequent fliers could be one way to lure in more business travelers.

Atlanta-based Delta has three elite frequent flier statuses — silver, gold and platinum — and will be adding a fourth, diamond. Customers reach those levels by flying a lot — you reach the lowest level after flying 30 segments in a year — and in return they get extra benefits like priority boarding, waived checked bag fees and free upgrades.

Now, Delta says it will allow customers to retain any Medallion qualification miles earned above a Medallion threshold at the end of the year, supplementing the ability to earn status the following year. For example, should a member accrue 40,000 Medallion qualification miles in one calendar year, the 15,000 Medallion qualification miles that exceed the 25,000 threshold for silver status will be rolled over to the following year.

Delta said there is no limit to the number of miles rolled over, and the benefit takes effect immediately.

The rollover idea is similar to one offered for several years to some AT&T cell phone customers, who can roll over unused minutes in certain plans to the following month.

Among other changes coming from Delta:

_The new diamond level for flyers who earn 125,000 MQMs or fly 140 segments per calendar year will include a complimentary Delta Sky Club membership, among other benefits.

_Diamond, platinum and gold Medallion members will have ticketing fees waived for all bookings, whether completed by phone, online or in person.

By HARRY R. WEBER, AP Airlines Writer Harry R. Weber, Ap Airlines Writer

Article from YahooNews

Scranton welcomes fans of 'The Office'

The Mall at Steamtown, the Penn Paper building and sights along Mifflin Avenue in Scranton, Pa., might not seem like traditional tourist draws. Nor, for that matter, does Scranton itself rank high on the list of must-sees before you die.

But that was before the mockumentary television series, The Office, became an Emmy award winning hit. And so on the hunch that no detail is too minute and no site too mundane for diehard fans of the set-in-Scranton show, a group of locals has launched weekly Office Fan Tour tours. The tours visit spots mentioned in the show and tie in local history and Office trivia.

More than 60 fans showed up last Saturday to pose for photos in front of the Scranton Welcomes You sign featured in the show's opening montage. They dined on beet salad at Coopers Seafood House and dropped by Poor Richard's Pub for a cold Yuengling. Both spots are among the hangouts for employees of the fictional office supply company, Dunder Mifflin.

Saturday's record turnout was, no doubt, due to the presence of Melora Hardin, the actress who plays Jan Levinson on the show. She was in town promoting her new movie, You, and hung out at the mall with the tour group. (Bobby Ray Shafer, who plays Bob Vance, is scheduled to accompany Saturday's tour, and organizers hint that other cast members may follow.) The four-hour tours are led by students from the University of Scranton.

The city hosted an Office convention in 2007, which drew cast members and writers for the show and 15,000 attendees over three days. But until the tours began in June, Scranton hadn't attempted to capitalize on its notoriety with any regularity, even though city officials were aware that fans were trickling into town. In fact, so many visitors were jumping out of their cars to pose by the Scranton Welcomes You sign on the busy Central Scranton Expressway, the sign was re-located to the Mall at Steamtown.

Entire Article: USAToday

Haut-Var, France: Plunge into Provence

The Gorges du Verdon offer a remote and spectacular respite from the region's tawdry tourist fare, says Charles Starmer-Smith.

The peak summer period sees much of Provence become a Peter Mayle-inspired theme park, but the hilltop villages of the Haut-Var still offer the kind of life that people craved long before the writer left his mark on the region.

So forget the tourist-heavy towns of Aix, Avignon and Arles and the fleshpot beaches of Porquerolles. Head instead for the hills to the east, to the lesser known villages of Tourtour, Moustiers, Sillans-la-Cascade, Aups, Bargemon and beyond.

Here, with Britons and Americans turning their backs on the Continent because of the expensive euro, tourists remain a sideshow. Boules tournaments, truffle-hunting and Le Tour are still the talk of the town. Rather than the worst tourist tat, the bustling markets are filled with the best local produce – rough-cut cheeses, misshapen sausages, aromatic herbs and lavender soap, as well as freshly baked baguettes, honey and crisp rosé wine.

Old men can still sup pastis in the local cafés in relative peace before retiring to the shade of the tree-lined squares.

The forested hills may not boast the classic Monet scenes of dilapidated farmhouses and fields of poppies that you find around Aix, but by the time you have followed the hairpin roads to the top of the glacier-blue Gorges du Verdon, and peered down into Europe's answer to the Grand Canyon, you really won't care.

Complete Article: Telegraph.co.uk

 

Tourists remain a sideshow in the villages of Tourtour, Moustiers (pictured), Sillans-la-Cascade, Aups and Bargemon Photo: GETTY

An odd inn in Old Town Edinburgh

Part of Edinburgh's appeal is its mix of the whimsical and the macabre. Its attractions include a storybook castle, the tombstone of a dog, and the buried street Mary King's Close, where a stack of Barbie dolls supposedly brings solace to the spirit of a girl abandoned during an epidemic. It is all good fun, and tourists lap it up.

This boutique property, which opened in December, fits in perfectly. It's housed partly in Bedlam, a former lunatic asylum. And its main meeting room is named after Burke and Hare, serial murderers who sold the bodies of their victims for medical research. But as in its 14 sister hotels across England and Scotland – all in historic buildings – there is an emphasis on informal luxury, food and wine. Naturally, Scotch is also part of the mix.

LOCATION In the heart of Old Town, a short walk from the historic Royal Mile and steps from the National Museum of Scotland.

AMBIENCE Playful. The lobby is illuminated by a chandelier of inverted wine glasses, and the rooms have no numbers – instead each room is named after a type of wine, with a hand-painted wall illustration of its namesake.

CLIENTELE Business travellers on weekdays and vacationing couples on weekends.

DESIGN The hotel, a historic building with additions, has a rambling feel. Exposed walls exude a sense of history, but modern furnishings and bright artwork give a contemporary feel. There are framed wine labels on the walls along with Scottish tweeds and tartans.

ROOMS Standard rooms are comfortable for one, but could be cramped for a couple. They have limited shelf and closet space, a single chair each and no space to store a suitcase. Suites and superior rooms, however, are big enough to toss a haggis. Each has a large bathtub, prominently placed in the bedroom. All rooms come with hand-sprung mattresses, Egyptian cotton sheets, plasma TVs and DVD players. Bathrooms have heated floors and monsoon showers, and the Arran Aromatics toiletries are made on a Scottish island.

SERVICE Friendly and helpful, but front-desk staff seemed a little befuddled. They often had trouble locating room keys, which are supposed to be surrendered by guests whenever they leave. Wake-up calls – live and automated – were consistently late.

AMENITIES Wi-Fi is free, and there is a cigar shack in the open-air cobblestone courtyard. But there is no spa, pool or fitness centre. Off-site parking costs $23 for 24 hours.

FOOD AND DRINK The bistro is casual, but the French and Scottish dishes are memorable. Dinner might consist of chicken-liver pâté, haggis with neeps and tatties, pollock with spinach, and pear tart with blue-cheese ice cream. As well, guests in suites receive a complimentary whisky tasting.

THINGS TO DO Edinburgh is at the heart of Scottish Homecoming festivities throughout 2009. Nearby, the Scotch Whisky Experience (www.whisky-heritage.co.uk) offers tutored tastings and an amusement-park-style ride through the whisky-making process.

Special to The Globe and Mail

* * *

Hotel vitals

TOP DRAWS
The location, the cheery bistro and the sense of fun.

NEEDS WORK
Partying in the courtyard makes it hard to sleep in nearby rooms.

BOTTOM LINE
Quirky, stylish and unpretentious.

The author was a guest of the hotel.

HOTEL DU VIN & BISTRO
11 Bristo Place, Edinburgh; 44 (131) 247 4900; www.hotelduvin.com/edinburgh.
ROOMS AND RATES

41 rooms from $227; 6 suites from $445.

Douglas McArthur

From Wednesday's Globe and Mail

Bath time in Budapest

Taking the plunge in the historic thermal baths of Szechenyi and Gellert in Budapest, Hungary.

In Budapest, Hungary's vibrant capital, you can sample spicy paprika at the Great Market Hall (designed by Gustave Eiffel), sip coffee in a genteel turn-of-the-20th-century cafe, and enjoy an affordable performance at the luxurious Opera House. Budapest has its fair share of museums and monuments, too: You can ogle the opulent interior of the Hungarian Parliament, get a taste of the gloomy Hungarian psyche at the National Gallery, and wander through a field of quirky old communist statues at Memento Park.

But for me, splashing and relaxing in Budapest's thermal baths is the city's top attraction. Though it might sound daunting, bathing in Budapest is far more accessible than you'd think. Tourists are welcome. The thermal baths are basically like your hometown swimming pool — except the water is 100 degrees, there are plenty of jets and bubbles to massage away your stress and you're surrounded by Hungarians having fun.

Locals brag that if you poke a hole in the ground anywhere in Hungary, you'll find a hot-water spring. Judging from Budapest, they may be right: The city has 123 natural springs and some two-dozen thermal baths. The baths are actually a part of the health-care system. Doctors regularly prescribe treatments that include massage, soaking in baths of various heat and mineral compositions, and swimming laps. For these patients, a visit to the bath is subsidized.

In Hungary, a typical bath complex has multiple pools, used for different purposes. Big pools with cooler water are for serious swimming, while the smaller, hotter thermal baths are for relaxing, enjoying the jets and current pools, and playing chess. You'll also usually find a dry sauna, a wet steam room, a cold plunge pool (for a pleasurable jolt when you're feeling overheated), and sunbathing areas. Many baths have fun flourishes: bubbles, whirlpools, massage jets, wave pools, and so on. Expect to pay $15 to $20 for admission and a personal changing cabin (about $2 cheaper if you change in the locker room). Swimsuits are the norm; nudity is optional.

Tribune Media Services


Complete Article: SeattleTimes.com

Tuesday, July 28, 2009

Top 10 Europe Cruise Ports

From Rome to Stockholm, Venice to Brugge, our sister site Cruise Critic's European Hot List offers an opinionated take on the best of the best of Europe's most fabulous ports.

What are your favorites? Scroll down to the comments section and tell us about the European ports you love most (whether they're Baltic, Eastern Mediterranean, Western Mediterranean, close to home, or even somewhat farther afield—such as the Canaries and Northern Africa), and offer us some detail about what you love most about them!

1. Rome

Best Small Pleasure: Eating and drinking at one of the city's famous piazzas, like Piazza Navona, Piazza del Popolo, or Campo dei Fiori; particularly delicious are the pastas (particularly the carbonara), pizzas and gelatos, though many cafes only serve pizza for dinner. Wash 'em down with a glass of the house wine—white or red Italian wines always taste delicious.

Biggest Surprise: Stumbling across some of Rome's most famous monuments by accident while meandering along winding, narrow streets when, suddenly, there's the Pantheon, the Colosseum, Trevi Fountain, and the Spanish Steps; or the neighborhood of Trastevere, with its funky boutiques and numerous sidewalk cafes.

Touristy but Fabulous: A pilgrimage to St. Peter's Basilica and Sistine Chapel in Vatican City.

2. Barcelona

Best Small Pleasure: A plate of tapas. Strolling along the beach in the fishing village of Barceloneta. An afternoon siesta.

Biggest Surprise: That Barcelona's most famous cathedral—La Sagrada Familia, designed by native son Antoni Gaudi—is still unfinished more than 75 years after his death. Most fascinating was wandering around a cathedral-in-progress (as construction workers ply their trade around you) and also climbing the 365-winding, turret-esque stairs of the bell towers for a marvelous view.

Touristy but Fabulous: Wandering along Las Ramblas, Barcelona's famed pedestrian boulevard and sipping wine at one of its numerous cafes. Also, make sure to visit Las Ramblas' Boqueria, Barcelona's fabulous food market, and Museu Picasso, not just for its collection of the artist's work but also the 15th-century palace that houses them.

3. Venice

Best Small Pleasure: Tucking into a cheap—but delicious—plate of pasta with a local wine at one of the city's numerous trattorias (Tip: Generally, the farther away from San Marco Square, the less touristy they are).

Biggest Surprise: Riding the vaporreto—a water version of a city bus—around the city. Exploring the nearby island of Guidecca (where the "real" locals live).

Touristy but Fabulous: San Marco Square is awesome! During the height of summer, try to visit early before it gets too crowded (and wear a hat in case one of the ubiquitous pigeons, well, you know). Riding in a gondola, at sunset, with a tenor belting out Italian arias.

4. Paris

Best Small Pleasure: Watching the world go by from a vantage point at one of Paris' innumerable sidewalk cafes.

Biggest Surprise: As big as Paris can seem, it's really just a collection of neighborhoods. With limited time to explore, pick a neighborhood and poke around its nooks, crannies, cathedrals, shops, parks, and museums. Taking a Turkish bath at the Hammam in La Grande Mosquee, then finishing off with a mint tea in the Moorish cafe next door.

Touristy but Fabulous: Riding to the top of Eiffel Tower. The Grand Louvre for a glimpse at the Mona Lisa (and everything else in the world's biggest art museum). Haute chic shopping on the Avenue Montaigne (Chanel, Dior, Ungaro), Faubourg St-Honore (Gucci, Chloe, Hermes), and the Left Bank (Giorgio Armani, Yves St-Laurent, and Louis Vuitton).

5. Brugge

Best Small Pleasure: Supping at a sidewalk cafe on Belgium's classic moules' frites (mussels and fries), washed down with a local beer.

Biggest Surprise: The canals! You can take a boat ride that winds in and out of some fairly off-the-beaten-track (and quite beautiful) parts of Brugge.

Touristy but Fabulous: Hanging out in any of the town's numerous squares—people-watching, eating and drinking, and shopping for lace and chocolate.

6. St. Petersburg

Best Small Pleasure: Dining on Chicken Kiev at the Grand Hotel's sidewalk cafe just off vibrant Nevsky Prospekt. Strolling through the park opposite St. Isaac's Cathedral.

Biggest Surprise: St. Isaac's Cathedral, a splendid mid-19th century Orthodox church with highlights that include mosaic murals, granite pillars, and marble floors; its immense gold dome can be seen for miles around. St. Petersburg's canals (you can take a boat ride a la Venice).

Touristy but Fabulous: The summer palaces—especially Pavlovsk and Pushkin.

7. Oslo

Best Small Pleasure: The murals in City Hall that depict scenes from life in Norway along with scenes highlighting resistance activities against the Germans there during World War II.

Biggest Surprise: Oslo's got the perfect blend of art and culture, history, and lush scenery (green parks, gorgeous bays, and harbors). It's an outdoor lovers' city that reminds me of America's Seattle.

Touristy but Fabulous: A short boat ride amidst the fjords (even locals occasionally deign to get onboard).

8. London

Best Small Pleasure: Lunching at "gastro" pubs like Chelsea's Cooper's Arms and Foxtrot Oscar.

Biggest Surprise: Gorgeous Kensington Park—head for the lake (you can rent lounge chairs) and don't forget to check out the Princess Diana memorials (flowers, letters) tucked into the wrought iron gate of Kensington Palace.

Touristy but Fabulous: Riding around on the double decker buses (on the top deck!). Riding the London Eye, the city's millennial Ferris wheel. Afternoon cream tea but not necessarily at the famed Ritz; more elegant experiences can be found at olde-British hotels like Brown's. Shopping at the venerable Harrods.

9. Copenhagen

Best Small Pleasure: Kayaking through Copenhagen's canals. Lunch at a sidewalk cafe at Nyhavn beside the canal.

Biggest Surprise: Climbing the seemingly endless spiraling staircase of the historic Round Tower; you can see why Russian Czar Peter the Great actually rode his horse to the top in 1716.

Touristy but Fabulous: Tivoli Gardens is a must-see; there are rides and amusements and restaurants ranging from casual snack shacks to Michelin-starred haute cuisine. If your ship overnights in Copenhagen, go after dark when the park is lit with twinkling lights as it's quite magical. Take a guided tour of Copenhagen, via the canals, by boat.

10. Stockholm

Best Small Pleasure: Strolling along downtown's waterfront promenade.

Biggest Surprise: The Swedish Archipelago. At sunset, as ships sail from the port of Stockholm to the open ocean, they pass through (takes a couple of hours) a gorgeous, glittering string of small islands, green, lush, and largely undeveloped aside from occasional brightly painted wood homes. This view alone is worth booking a balcony cabin.

Touristy but Fabulous:

A city tour from a boat. Gamla Stan, Stockholm's walled, medieval-era old town. Head for Vasterlanggatan, the main drag, and explore from there.

Article from: SmarterTravel.com

Backpackers take green vacations on European farms

SANTA EULALIA DEL MONTE, Spain – Backpackers pining for European adventure have discovered life on the farm, shoveling manure, feeding pigs and making butter as a recession-beating way to sate their wanderlust.

Their ticket to an earthy taste of the Old Continent is an innovative Web site that connects travelers with a network of organic farms stretching from Portugal to Turkey and around the world.

World Wide Opportunities on Organic Farms, an organization founded in Britain, has been around since 1971 but has lured many more volunteer farmhands in recent years as hard economic times forced people young and not so young to seek a cheap way to take a European vacation.

This year 15,700 of them are scattered across Europe getting their hands good and dirty, compared to 6,400 in 2004, WWOOF says. The number of hosts is up, too, roughly doubling to 2,240 in that same time span. The organization also offers farm stays in the Americas, Africa, the Middle East and the Asia-Pacific region.

For a few hours of work a day — other chores include milking goats, collecting honey and making compost — volunteers get a place to stay, fresh food to eat and a bargain.

"I didn't have enough money to stay on any other way," said Alex Mansfield, 21, a guitar-toting philosophy student from Massachusetts who traded in the city life of his study-abroad experience in Salamanca, Spain, for a few weeks on an isolated farm. "It gets expensive, having to eat and sleep under roofs."

Along with three other Americans and an Argentinean, Mansfield spent part of this summer on an ever-changing volunteer force at Centro Ammehula, a ghost hamlet transformed into an organic farm, tucked away on a craggy mountainside of Spain's northwest Galicia region.

The setting was scenic but the accommodations modest: several metal trailers and tents surrounding a bonfire area, all of it 9 miles from the nearest supermarket. But the volunteers, feasting on fresh lettuce and lip-staining strawberries from the farm, don't seem to mind.

"It feels so good to be right near the food you're about to cook," said former New York schoolteacher Talia Kahn-Kravis, 23, as she squirted milk from a goat's udder into a plastic bucket.

Like Kahn-Kravis, supporters of the slow food movement, which began in Italy as a backlash against fast food, are praising the return to the farms.

"It's one of the ways of recovering relationships with food," said Cinzia Scaffidi, director of the Slow Food Study Center in Italy.

Centro Ammehula's owner, Martin Verfondern, 51, said WWOOF is not just about growing fresh produce. More importantly, he says, it fosters cultural understanding.

"WWOOF is the perfect anti-discrimination device," said the Dutchman born in Germany, who has lived on the Spanish farm for 11 years. "We have Germans and Israelis sitting at a table together without problems. It's a really great way of getting to know more of a country than only the national prejudices."

While Spain is seeing an increase in foreigners eager to take a stab at farming, it is hardly the only European nation attracting attention.

"It's a way to spend time in places without spending money," said WWOOFer Elliott Smith, 21, who has traveled to Italy and Belgium during vacations from an organic Beaujolais vineyard outside of Lyon, France. "Everybody wants to travel a bit and the big thing is to do it without going totally broke."

Aside from having a travel base camp among a crop of thin-skinned Gamay grapes, the linguistics student from Texas said his "farmer French ... increased tenfold."

Recent graduates and college students like Smith and Mansfield make up a significant portion of WWOOF's volunteers, although farmhands come from walks of life as varied as the chores they do, said Chemi Pena, spokesman for WWOOF in Spain.

"The profile of farms is really diverse," he said.

Julie Bateman, a mother of two and slow food advocate, packed up her 10- and 13-year-old children and left her home in Charleston, S.C., for a volunteer farming stint in Italy this summer.

"WWOOFing with the two children is certainly a twist on the normal travel and WWOOFing in general," said Bateman, 42.

For many volunteers, WWOOF is creating a class of green-thumbed do-gooders, more conscious of their carbon footprints.

"A lot of people maybe come here to do a cheap Eurotrip," said New York native Kahn-Kravis, as she picked strawberries. "But in reality, you can't do this without learning a bunch and having a more holistic approach to life."

___

If You Go...

WORLDWIDE OPPORTUNITIES ON ORGANIC FARMS: http://www.wwoof.org. Food and lodging at an organic farm in exchange for volunteering to work at the farm. Annual registration fees vary by country, but are typically around $30-35 (20-25 euros). Opportunities on every continent.

By JEANNIE NUSS, Associated Press Writer

Article from: news:yahoo.com

Biking the Iron Curtain Trail

THE first thing that struck us was the distance between the watchtowers. We had just cycled a strenuous mile uphill above the medieval village of Geisa, along the Iron Curtain Trail that follows the old Warsaw Pact-NATO divide in central Germany. Now, in the tranquillity of the early evening, we emerged at the top of the hill onto a verdant field adorned with European Union and German flags — and two sinister-looking structures that faced off against each other no more than 70 yards apart.

Between them stood a remnant of the original Iron Curtain fence: its concrete support posts had once been fortified with antipersonnel fragmentation mines loaded with an explosive charge of 110 grams of TNT and 80 metal splinters that could be propelled 30 yards in all directions. A German shepherd molded from concrete and painted in shades of brown and black, a classic piece of cold war kitsch, was tethered by a metal chain to a tree.

But it was the towers that demanded attention: the East German relic, erected in the early 1970s, was an ugly white column about 40 feet high, topped by an observation slot and a bristling array of listening equipment. The American installation, dominated by an open-air deck, looked like a combination military post and lifeguard station — “Seven Days in May” meets “Baywatch.”

From 1953 until 1989, these watchtowers straddled the most dangerous border in the world. American troops from the 14th and 11th Armored Cavalry Regiments stared down East German soldiers just across the divide from their base, Point Alpha, waiting for the ground attack that would

Entire Article: travel.newyorktimes.com

Swedish couple miss Italian isle after GPS blunder

The middle-aged couple, who were not identified, only discovered their error when they asked staff in the local tourist office on Saturday how to drive to the island's famous "Blue Grotto"

ROME, ITALY: Two Swedes expecting the golden beaches of the Italian island of Capri got a shock when tourist officials told them they were 650 km (400 miles) off course in the northern town of Carpi, after mistyping the name in their GPS.

"It's hard to understand how they managed it. I mean, Capri is an island," said Giovanni Medici, a spokesman for Carpi regional government, told Reuters on Tuesday. "It's the first time something like this has happened."

The middle-aged couple, who were not identified, only discovered their error when they asked staff in the local tourist office on Saturday how to drive to the island's famous "Blue Grotto".

"They were surprised, but not angry," Medici said. "They got back in the car and started driving south."

The picturesque island of Capri, famed as a romantic holiday destination, lies in the Gulf of Naples in southern Italy and has been a resort since Roman times.

Carpi is a busy industrial town in the province of Emilia Romagna, at the other end of Italy

Article from: ciol.com

Fliers trapped on tarmac push for rules on release

Brad Dwin was so angry about being stuck on an airplane last month that he volunteered to work for free for a passengers-rights organization.

Dwin, president of a marketing and public relations company, says he spent about six hours on June 10 in a window seat waiting on the tarmac of Washington's Dulles airport for his United Airlines (UAUA) flight to take off to Las Vegas. Looking out the window, he saw other planes waiting. Like Dwin, passengers on those planes were essentially trapped, too.

Being "trapped on a plane for several hours causes a lot of frustration," Dwin, of Silver Spring, Md., says. "You reach a certain point when people with a calm demeanor get angry."

Aircraft stack up on the tarmac outside O'Hare International Airport in Chicago, Ill. Congress may consider legislation that would allow passengers to de-plane badly delayed flights.
By David Zalubowski, AP Aircraft stack up on the tarmac outside O'Hare International Airport in Chicago, Ill. Congress may consider legislation that would allow passengers to de-plane badly delayed flights.

Dwin's anger took him to FlyersRights.org. It's a group that has been lobbying Congress since January 2007 to free airline passengers from being held on planes for hours with no way to get back to the terminal to make other travel arrangements.

"Passengers don't want to be treated like cargo — they want to be treated like paying passengers," says Kate Hanni, who founded FlyersRights.org after her family spent more than eight hours on the tarmac. "Passengers feel completely powerless trapped in a sealed metal tube with no access to goods and services, and no way to get off."

Congress has gotten the message. Legislation that would let passengers get off planes delayed on airport tarmacs is moving through the House and Senate as part of a bill reauthorizing and funding the Federal Aviation Administration.

A Senate committee last week voted to require airlines to let passengers get off planes that are delayed for more than three hours. The House has passed a less specific version. It requires each airline to submit to the Transportation Department a plan to allow passengers to get off planes with long delays.

For many irate fliers, action seems overdue. About 200,000 domestic passengers such as Dwin have been stuck on about 3,000 planes for three hours or more waiting to take off or taxi to a gate since January 2007, a USA TODAY analysis of Transportation Department data shows. Between October 2008 and May 2009, there were 577 planes that sat for that long.

The airlines, however, say that long delays are rare and result mostly from bad weather and a backed-up air-traffic-control system. They warn that forcing them to return planes to terminals after three hours could often make matters worse.

"Such a rule would result in numerous unintended consequences that ultimately will create inconveniences for passengers and lead to more flight cancellations," says David Castelveter, vice president of the Air Transport Association of America, which represents U.S. airlines.

Babies were crying

The USA TODAY analysis of delays that the airlines report to the Transportation Department finds that long delays are rare. Between October and May, when 19 big airlines operated 4.3 million domestic flights, the 577 delays of three hours or more translated into a rate of 1.35 flights per every 10,000.

That's of little consolation to passengers such as Dwin, 38, who says he had little room to get up and stretch. Two disabled passengers in his row made it difficult to leave his seat. But, he says, "The most frustrating thing was that no one from United gave accurate information about the situation or showed any remorse."

United's Robin Urbanski says Dwin and his fellow passengers were stuck in the plane because of bad weather and the plane's loss of power steering. "As a goodwill gesture," she says, passengers were offered frequent-flier miles or a discount off a future flight.

Dwin's experience wasn't nearly as bad as what Nancy Whitehead of Orange, Calif., says she and seven family members and friends endured on a delayed Delta Air Lines (DAL) flight from the Turks and Caicos islands of the Caribbean to Atlanta on April 10.

The flight from the British territory was unable to land because of bad weather in Atlanta. It was diverted to Columbia, S.C., for refueling. There, passengers sat on the plane for at least five hours because of weather, a flight crew that reached its duty-time limits and no U.S. Customs facilities to process any passengers who might want off the flight to make other travel arrangements.

Whitehead, 43, an office manager at an elementary school, says passengers weren't served any food or drink. Toilets backed up, she says, adults got angry, and babies were crying.

Eventually, she says, passengers were allowed to leave the plane and led to a small room at the terminal that had few chairs. Security guards kept an eye on them, security tape blocked access out of the room, she says, and no food was available.

Passengers spent an hour in the hot and humid room before they were moved to another area in the terminal where food could be bought. About 2½ hours later, Whitehead says, passengers boarded the plane for a flight to Atlanta. Then, she says, they had to wait another hour after the pilot announced that one fuel tank had more fuel than another.

Ed Stewart, a Delta spokesman, says the airline has been unfairly criticized for the incident, which was reported by newspaper, TV and air travel websites.

"Multiple strong storm systems" kept the plane from taking off from Columbia, Stewart says. By law, he says, Delta couldn't let passengers off because it was an international flight under the control of U.S. Customs.

Of big airlines, Delta had more long delays (81) than others between October and May, a USA TODAY analysis of the data compiled by the Department's Bureau of Transportation Statistics show. Continental was next, with 72. ExpressJet Airlines had 93 delays on Continental Express (CAL) flights, more than any other carrier.

Like the Delta flight that Whitehead was stranded on, weather played a big role in many delays, and many occurred on the same days. Most delays on Continental and many Continental Express flights occurred on Dec. 10, for instance. That's when "a freak snowstorm" hit Houston, says Continental spokeswoman Julie King.

Since then, King says, Continental has revised its procedures for long-delayed flights. It's improving its de-icing capabilities in Houston and now gives passengers the option of getting off a plane after a three-hour wait.

Airlines blame traffic, too

Mechanical and other safety concerns also contribute to delays. And the airlines say crowded airports and backed-up traffic often make it impractical for pilots to return to terminals.

For example, a mechanical problem and bad weather caused a long delay of an American Eagle flight from Colorado Springs to Dallas on June 10. The plane's air conditioning malfunctioned while waiting to land in bad weather in Dallas, and the aircraft was diverted to Wichita Falls, Texas. It waited there for 4½ hours until maintenance and weather issues were resolved.

Gordon McCracken, a filmmaker in Washington, D.C., says passengers were alarmed when smoke entered the cabin in-flight. On the ground in Wichita Falls, passengers were very cold because the air-conditioning problem caused frigid air to enter the cabin, he says.

American spokesman Tim Smith says airline mechanics found no signs of smoke, and passengers probably saw vapor caused by the cold air from the air-conditioning system. In Wichita Falls, passengers were given the option to get off the plane except for the nearly two hours before takeoff to Dallas, Smith says.

McCracken says the long delay cost him an opportunity to bid on the sale of the apartment he was renting.

American and most U.S. carriers "do not guarantee" passengers will arrive at the scheduled time, Smith says. "Any passenger with an extremely important reason or time to be somewhere should allow for the possibility of extreme delays, especially weather or air-traffic-control related," Smith says.

When planes are backed up for takeoff or landing, there may be no empty gates or equipment available to deplane passengers, the airlines say.

"Because of the antiquated air-traffic-control system in which we — and every airline — operate, we're restricted as to the operational improvements we can make," says Bryan Baldwin, spokesman for JetBlue Airways.

Aviation consultant Michael Boyd says airline CEOs "should form a conga line" to the FAA, which oversees air travel, and demand the country's air-traffic system be modernized. That could increase airspace capacity and reduce the number of waiting planes.

'All about profit'

The airlines aren't blameless, other aviation consultants say. They overschedule flights at hub airports, which creates a situation in which there are too many planes and not enough gates, says Barbara Beyer, CEO of Avmark, an airline consulting company.

Fredrick Foreman of Metron Aviation, who wrote an April report on long ground delays for the FAA, says it's all about money.

"Airlines don't want to deplane passengers because they will lose money," Foreman says. "It's not about weather — it's all about profit motive."

The airlines oppose a hard and fast law that forces them to let passengers off planes that are stranded three hours or more. They prefer letting the airlines decide, says Castelveter of the Air Transport Association.

Forcing planes to return to the gate to let passengers off after three hours "would be highly disruptive to airport and airline operations," he says. "Airlines need operational flexibility in order to get passengers, crewmembers and aircraft to their destinations."

The American Society of Travel Agents initially agreed with the airlines, but now supports congressional action.

Paul Ruden, the society's senior vice president, was on a Transportation Department task force last year that recommended airlines keep passengers informed about delays and establish time limits at each airport for deplaning passengers. But that hasn't worked, he says, and Congress now needs to set "a clear standard for the airlines to follow."

Contributing: Barbara Hansen

By Gary Stoller, USA TODAY

United Reverses Course, Cuts Frequent Flyer Fee

After almost three decades in and around the travel industry, I'm rarely surprised by anything the airlines do.

But this morning's announcement from United that it will eliminate the last-minute ticketing fee for frequent flyer awards booked on or after July 30 was a stunner.

Currently, United charges $100 to book an award ticket for travel within six days of the departure date, and $75 for travel within seven to 20 days.

Not only will the change choke off a significant revenue stream, it will inevitably lead to an increase in award redemptions. With flights running almost 85 percent full, such an increase will either cut into the sale of revenue tickets (diluting United's profits) or swell the number of Mileage Plus members frustrated by the lack of award seats (diluting good will). Most likely, it will do both.

So the question is: Why?

The official quote from United's news release—which should never be taken at face value, of course—is as follows: "Being the first airline to eliminate the last-minute booking fee will make it easier for our members to use their miles, and it is one of the many steps we are taking to make Mileage Plus the most rewarding loyalty program for them."

Reading between the lines, United appears to be signaling that it recognizes the need to upgrade its competitive position among other major airlines.

While I've recently praised United for its unilateral award discounts, those were limited-time promotions.

American meanwhile has introduced its new Flex awards—a significant benefit for AAdvantage members, and a permanent one.

Delta, following its merger with Northwest, is flexing its marketing muscle as the world's largest airline with the world's largest frequent flyer program. And its current double-mile promotion is far superior in size and scope to anything on offer from other airlines.

So United, number three among U.S. mainline carriers, has been losing ground by standing still.

Dropping the rush fee for awards certainly will earn it the gratitude of Mileage Plus members. If the move forces other major carriers to drop their frequent flyer award fees, it will earn United at least a footnote in the history of mileage programs, in the slim chapter entitled "The Curious Case of the Disappearing Nuisance Fees."

Article from: Smartertravel.com

Monday, July 27, 2009

Where the Monsters Are

There’s even a scientific-sounding name for it: cryptozoology, the study of hidden or unknown animals. Obsessive fans of legendary monsters travel the world over to hunt down their legendary quarry. The most famous U.S. cryptid is Bigfoot, or Sasquatch, and in Scotland it’s the Loch Ness Monster, Nessie. Cryp fans know that besides these top two, there are many more whose lairs have become tourist draws. In the U.S. alone, you might have heard legends of the Mothman (West Virginia), Thunderbird (Lawndale, Illinois), Chessie (Lake Champlain) and the Jersey Devil (Pine Barrens of New Jersey), while roasting marshmallows around the campfire.

Entire Story: Forbestraveler.com

Choosing the Right Travel Luggage

choosing the right luggageYou're standing in the airport terminal, watching a line of luggage move toward you on the conveyer belt. You eye each bag carefully, searching for your own and dreading two distinct and disappointing outcomes: your bag could either appear dented and mauled with your underwear hanging out of a gaping tear, or, like a blind date gone horribly wrong, it could simply fail to show.

Choosing the right luggage can help prevent these minor tragedies, in addition to other inconveniences like pesky baggage fees for an oversized piece or the embarrassment of trying to squeeze your massive nylon duffel into the overhead compartment as impatient passengers struggle to get by. Pick the right carry-on and experience the freedom of traveling without checked bags -- you won't have to worry about lost luggage or extra fees if you can pack what you need in a good-sized carry-on. If you do check a bag, you'll feel confident that it will remain intact if you select a sturdy, reliable brand.

Q. What are my options?
A. Most bags, from backpacks to larger luggage pieces, can be purchased with wheels, back straps or retractable handles. While handles and back straps are consistently useful features, some travelers get frustrated by stiff luggage wheels, which can inadvertently lead a heavy bag across the foot of an innocent bystander. If this sounds like you, look for luggage with rubber spinner wheels that can twist 350 degrees, allowing for greater control and ease of movement.

Backpacks come in a variety of sizes, both with and without frames. They are a good option for anyone planning to camp, hike or do other outdoor activities. Even large luggage pieces can become backpacks when they have padded back straps. We love these bags -- but make sure to tape down any wayward straps if you check your backpack to keep them from getting entangled in the baggage carousel.

Duffel bags are no longer just a device to cart your sweats to and from the gym. Modern duffels often have accessories like wheels or a retractable handle; these bags are often sold as "travel duffels." While a traditional small or medium duffel bag will fit nicely in the overhead compartment, it may strain your arm or shoulder if you have to carry it for long distances. For extensive travel, always go for a piece that has wheels or back straps.

suitcaseTraditional luggage comes in two models: hard-side and soft. Hard-side bags are molded from hard-to-pronounce materials like polypropylene and polycarbonate. Soft bags can be made out of fabrics such as microfiber, leather, nylon, PVC or polyester. Some soft bags are expandable and can accommodate up to 25 percent more if you need the space.

Q. Should I choose a hard or soft bag?
A. Soft bags are more common than hard-shell luggage and are easier to squeeze into overhead compartments. These bags also absorb shock better than their molded counterparts. Soft bags are available in a wide variety of models; for example, you can purchase a carry-on with a zippered backpack attachment, or a duffel that can be either strapped to your back or wheeled through the airport.

Most ultra-lightweight luggage pieces are hard-side and may help you meet weight requirements for checked luggage. If your tightly packed bag often weighs more than you do, look into purchasing a lightweight bag, which can save you a few pounds. Hard-side bags also protect fragile items better than soft bags.

Whether you opt for a hard-side suitcase or a soft one, be sure that you're paying for good quality. Flimsy hard-side luggage can break or crack under pressure, while cheap soft luggage can tear.

Entire Article at: Independenttraveler.com

Breaking Away in Denmark

Flat as a smørrebrød sandwich and pretty as a picture, Denmark was made for bicycling. Sue Halpern saddles up and takes off with the wind at her back

It's a few nights shy of the summer solstice when I decide that carbo-loading before strenuous exercise is overrated. I'm in a party tent at the end of the harbor on Mors, an island in the Limfjord region of Denmark, surrounded by reveling Danes paying homage in song to a sea captain who went down with his ship. On a table lit by candelabra that runs half the width of the room are platters of smoked salmon, fresh salmon, smoked whitefish, gravlax, boiled shrimp, sushi, cod, shrimp salad, fish soup, oysters, fish cakes, and mussels. There are loaves of bread and pails of roasted potatoes, too, but when the signal is given and the lucky 550 of us who have scored tickets to the annual Mors Skaldyrsfestival queue up, these are largely left behind in favor of the bounty from the sea. Though my husband, teenage daughter, and I are leaving the next morning on a nine-day bike trip that will take us about 135 miles to the city of Skagen, at the northernmost tip of the country, and then more than 60 miles around Bornholm, Denmark's southeasterly island outpost, we follow the lead of our tablemates and pile high the omega-3s.

Eating with a certain degree of abandon is one of the pleasures of traveling by bike. You get to glide by the petrol station and fill up at the pastry shop or the ice-cream parlor or the raw bar. In France's Loire Valley, where our family biked the previous summer, our rides through lush vineyards were fueled by warm, crusty bread larded with local artisanal goat cheese, plum preserves, and honey. In Belgium, before that, we rewarded each day's outing with fresh-made truffles, slabs of dark chocolate, and pints of lambic and Duvel. Call it controlled gluttony, call it indulgence—on a bike you tend to eat heartily, close to the land, and it's one of the reasons I've come to favor the discomforts of riding (the sore muscles, the slow pace) over the more obvious comforts of driving.

Bike riding is also a conversation starter. "Have more to eat," the woman on the bench next to me at the Skaldyrsfestival insists when she learns we're setting off on two wheels the next day. Then the others sitting near us want to know our route. Then the mayor comes by, and they tell him all about our trip, and he shakes our hands mightily and claps us on the back and encourages us to make yet another pass at the buffet. Then the husband of the woman sitting next to me invites us to quit our hotel and spend the night at their house, and gives us their phone number in case we run into any trouble along the way. Less than twenty-four hours after arriving on Mors, we pull away from the cobblestoned town square fronted by Tudor-style timber frame buildings with a new set of friends.

Still, we are alone. It is just the three of us and our rental bikes, maps, and gear. Unlike a traditional bike tour, which has a trip leader, a group of riders, and a set itinerary that typically prescribes where and when youll stop for meals, where you'll stay, and what you'll see and do, ours is self-guided. Our time is our own. Our route is our own. And our screwups—such as riding south out of Mors for five miles instead of west, and then watching the wind catch our map of the town and carry it out to sea—are our own, too.

For Complete Article: Conde Nast Traveler

American Raises Baggage Fees by $5

American has raised its baggage fees by $5, meaning you'll pay $20 for the first checked bag and $30 for the second. The new fee will affect all tickets booked on or after August 14 for travel within the U.S., Puerto Rico, and the U.S. Virgin Islands.

Unlike recent moves from US Airways, United, Delta, and Continental, there is no escaping this fee hike. Those carriers added a $5 surcharge to bag fees paid at the airport, but customers can dodge the surcharge by paying the fee online. American, however, is simply raising the fee by $5.

The question now, of course, is whether or not American's competitors will match the hike. Will the four carriers with airport surcharges simply apply the surcharge to fees paid online? Or will they see this as an opportunity to bring in more revenue (with the surcharge) while maintaining a competitive advantage over American?

As always, you can keep up with all the airline fees with our handy Ultimate Guide to Airline Fees.

Article from: Smartertravel.com

Sunday, July 26, 2009

London for beginners

What you can't miss and what you canThis is my first trip to this city of lords and chimney sweeps. As I was raising four children, everyone else seemed to slip away to London except me. The London I've finally discovered is as rumpled and comfy as old corduroy (which I like) and as stylish and smug as the sassiest fashionistas (which I don't).


From that perspective, here's my ranking of London's sights, the musts and the busts. But, really, it's London, so you can't go completely wrong.

Don't miss

Tower of London: Creepy and beautiful all at once. The brilliant guides, the Beefeaters, may well be the best entertainers in town; houses the crown jewels.

Westminster Abbey: Profoundly moving site of coronations and funerals. On weekdays, catch the youth choirs at late-afternoon services.

Portobello Market: Best lunch in London? Gets our vote. On Saturdays, this Notting Hill market is a crazy, cool cultural mobfest. Try the Ghanaian stew ($9).


St. Paul's Cathedral: Charles and Di married here. If you're fit, climb the narrow stairway to the Whispering Gallery, where secrets spin 'round the walls.

London theaters: The Italians make art. The French make love. The British make theater ... in opulent venues surrounding wonderful Leicester Square.

Buckingham Palace: Changing of the guard, 11:30 a.m. most days, draws insane numbers, like some sort of British Disneyland. Go anyway.

The Tate Modern: In a city of engaging museums, this art venue is a standout. Lively riverside setting. Like most London museums, it's free.

London Eye: Not technically a Ferris wheel, because the cabs are on the outside of the giant hoop. Whatever. Pricey, at $25, but unforgettable views.

Covent Garden Market: This hyper-touristy old market is worth a quick stop for its shops, cafes and street entertainers. The Royal Opera House is steps away.

Hyde Park: Henry VIII's former hunting grounds are the ideal spot for a Sunday stroll; a living period piece. Be sure to check out the rental rowboats.

Skip it?

British Museum: The Rosetta Stone resides here, as do miles of Middle Eastern antiquities. After the mummies, it's a bit of a slog.

Thames Tour: More relaxing than the land-based tours, but the city's chill seeps up through the hull. On blustery days, grab an inside seat.

Harrods : Maybe the timing is just bad, but unless you're a sheik, this whopping shopping cathedral seems not of the moment: Who pays $50 for a dozen oysters?

Oxford Street/Piccadilly Circus: Lively, youth-oriented shopping district with world-class buzz. One of the city's main traffic snarls, so be prepared to walk.

Royal Albert Hall: Perhaps a winner during a concert. But as a tour stop, not as much. The Albert Memorial across the street helps elevate the experience.

Jack the Ripper tour : Despite a game and active guide -- he even sang -- this walking tour is a dud. Maybe it's because some of the 19th Century sites are gone.

| Tribune Newspapers
Article from: Chicago Tribune

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